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Low Earth Orbit
DIY Audio
New DIY Mid High (90deg) - AKA PM90
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<blockquote data-quote="Peter Morris" data-source="post: 214328" data-attributes="member: 652"><p>Hi Max, you raise an interesting point about real / true power. What Powersoft is doing is measuring the actual current and multiplying it by the actual voltage, and then integrating this over a time period to anticipate the temperature rise in the VC. i.e. they are calculating against the real impedance, not the nominal impedance.</p><p></p><p>What the AES measurement is doing is calculating the power handling based on a nominal fixed impedance (e.g. 4 or 8 ohms). As I understand you don’t need to use this 1/3 power suggestion unless you are using Powersoft’s True power limiter.</p><p></p><p>As an example my double 18 subs are nominally 4 ohms. I can remember looking at my Powersoft K10 when driving 2 of these. It told me the impedance the amplifier was seeing on average was just below 7 ohms, not the 2 ohm nominal impedance. In other words the real or true power was about 1/3 of the nominal power calculated from the applied voltage.</p><p></p><p>In this case my limiter was set to a voltage based on the driver’s 8 ohm 1800w rating.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Peter Morris, post: 214328, member: 652"] Hi Max, you raise an interesting point about real / true power. What Powersoft is doing is measuring the actual current and multiplying it by the actual voltage, and then integrating this over a time period to anticipate the temperature rise in the VC. i.e. they are calculating against the real impedance, not the nominal impedance. What the AES measurement is doing is calculating the power handling based on a nominal fixed impedance (e.g. 4 or 8 ohms). As I understand you don’t need to use this 1/3 power suggestion unless you are using Powersoft’s True power limiter. As an example my double 18 subs are nominally 4 ohms. I can remember looking at my Powersoft K10 when driving 2 of these. It told me the impedance the amplifier was seeing on average was just below 7 ohms, not the 2 ohm nominal impedance. In other words the real or true power was about 1/3 of the nominal power calculated from the applied voltage. In this case my limiter was set to a voltage based on the driver’s 8 ohm 1800w rating. [/QUOTE]
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New DIY Mid High (90deg) - AKA PM90
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